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Flavorful Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani along with So Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on the UNESCO Gastronomy List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking via the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the vessel's cover securely sealed with dough.

Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

A Global Honor

Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".

The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.

A City Defined by Food

The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense passion for food.

"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Succulent kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is famous for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.

A Diverse Culinary Landscape

In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert Makkhan Malai
The city showcases unique seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a one-of-a-kind cloud-like dessert, when it gets cold.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is known for its creamy spiced tea.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.

On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.

By

Crystal Vasquez

Luna van der Meer is a Dutch cultural journalist and nightlife enthusiast who explores Amsterdam's after-dark arts scene.

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